A Travellerspoint blog

July 2012

A Dream Like Picturesque Landscape Painting

Hey Hey and a Big G'Day toya,

VB, Victoria Bitter. Chemically enhanced and brewed beer. After seven and a half years, it’s still as bad as I remembered. Thank gawd The Alley Bar had a handful of cold Coopers Ale to wash it down.

Huge unplanned ride yesterday so today I’m resting up with woozy legs. I spent a hand full of hours riding around the Moon Hill area with friends who then wanted to check out Dragon Bridge and spend the rest of the afternoon there swimming. After checking my busy schedule I found that as usual, I had no plans so I was more than happy to keep peddling.

Especially through fields along the tiny trail to such a beautiful destination!

Once we arrived at Dragon Bridge we sat on the river side eating BBQ corn cobs and chatting while waving to the bamboo rafters as they slowly passed by. After an hour or so I decided to put foot to peddle once more, explore more of the Dragon Bridge area and for some reason headed towards the Guilin to Yangshuo main road. As my time here in Yangshuo is coming to an end, after a quick look at my map I decided to allow the days adventure to continue and pointed my sandals towards ancient Yangdi Village which took another few hours in the saddle.

Half of the ride was along the main road eating the dust from speeding trucks and tour buses but once left the main road the rest of the journey was peaceful and once again I found myself riding through more of Yangshuo’s dramatic scenery. After an entire month of riding I found that my body was beginning to complain and my energy levels depleted dramatically and on more than one occasion I almost stopped several buses returning to Yangshuo. Thankfully I didn’t as when I arrived at the final leg of the journey to Yangdi I was left breathless not only from the ride but also from the sheer beauty of the Yangdi area that lay below me at the end of what was to be my final decent.

After a short rest at the top I then sped winding my way downwards for the next five minutes and once I reached the Li River I threw the peddles on a bamboo raft and took what was supposed to be an hour’s journey back to XingPing Village.

Due to the Water Police speeding up and down the river, my Raft Guy (un-licensed) and I along with two other rafts found an off shoot and spent the next hour swimming. I arrived at XingPing an hour late just as the sun was beginning to yawn and as I still had thirty kilometers to go. I began peddling like a maniac and after mother nature threw her blanket of darkness upon us I had to walk my bike the last third as it was a rural area, there were no street lights and mostly on-coming traffic which of course not only blinded me but also scared the besheezus out of me.

More than a tad scary wondering when I was going to get side swiped and squished by a passing truck or tour bus. I finally made it back to Yangshuo around ten and as I had already had a month’s protein fix from the millions of bugs that not only covered me but ended up eating I grabbed a couple of cold beers, some 'two minute’ noodles and wobbled back to my room on legs that somehow made the last five minutes journey and four flights of stairs.

After a shower and a one cold beer the noodles ended up becoming breakfast. I lay back, turned on the TV and woke the next this morning body sore.

<u>Now For a Bit on Yangdi Village</u>

Yangdi Village is located on the west bank of Li River, around fifty kilometers from Guilin. Behind the village is a hill consisting two peaks, which (to the Chinese) look like two sheep hoofs (yang ti in Chinese) hanging upside down, hence the name Yangdi Village as it sounds like yangti. Legend has it that a daughter of the Jade Emperor (leader of all gods in Chinese legend) came to Yangdi Village to look for her pet goat. The pretty fairy girl was deeply attracted by the melodious flute played by a young man standing in the moonlight so she decided to never return to heaven. Her pet sheep then turned into part of the landscape with two of its hoofs being seen in the shape of two peaks.

Dense green bamboo along with the small villages found beneath the elegant karst peaks that line the Li River all form the dream like picturesque landscape painting that was part of my reality this day!

Beers N Noodles toya…..shane ___________________________________________________________

The soundtrack to this entry was by Black Sabbath The album was &#8216;The Ozzy Years’ ____________________________________________________________

Yangshuo Yangdi Village Ride

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Posted by eddakath 17:00 Archived in China Comments (0)

Ancient XingPing Town Adventure

Hey Hey and a Big G'Day toya,

VISA’s mate! Sometimes they are so hard to come by!

If you are from one of the lucky countries at times they are granted upon entry, other times they may take a day or two but here in Guangxi they take more than a month to be processed. So after an entire month I finally got news that my passport should arrive anytime soon with my new Residency Visa but on the bad side, I will soon have to pay for my room but hey;

A month’s free accommodation is more than plenty to ask for here in Yangshuo.

<u>The ride to Ancient Xingping Town</u>

In the past I’ve ridden to XingPing several times but this time I decided to take the main road as appose to the Li River ride as it gave me the opportunity to take in some of the small villages along the way. Though the main road is extremely dusty and dangerous due to a billion tourist buses every minute trying to collect me by the way side and drag me to their destination by the axel, I got to spend time off road in villages where the teenagers for some reason like to play basket ball with corn cobs rather than actual basket balls, but it has been a wonderful adventure.

I've got one more long ride I want to do here and hopefully it will happen prior to the return of my passport as I’ve never ridden this ride before.

<u>Now For A Bit On Ancient Xingping Town.</u>

Found around twenty five kilometers upstream from Yangshuo, surrounded by a jungle of karst pinnacles, the charming and as yet unspoiled village of Xingping is being touted by some as the next Yangshuo which means it will be the next backpackers' haven as this particular stretch of river between found Yangdi Village and Xingping Town is known as the Golden Waterway that includes the most famous peak in the area, the Nine Horse Mountain which is the picture found on the Chinese Twenty Yuan note..

Xingping is an ancient town with a history of more than one thousand three hundred years and now only a few cafes and backpackers' hostels have sprung up and accommodation and dining are still fairly basic but it is more than well worth the stay.

An interesting side trip from Xingping is to Yucun (literally "Fishing Village"), a tiny, picturesque Ming dynasty village (1506-21) found twenty minutes downstream along the Li River, whose more famous visitors have included Sun Yat-Sen in 1921 and Bill Clinton in 1998. The village is full of traditional Ming and Qing dynasty houses with white walls and gray tiled roofs with upturned eaves, as well as ancestral halls. The beautiful boat ride between Xingping and Yucun, is however more than worth the hassle of getting there.

In ancient times, Xingping Village was the largest town along the Li River (sixty three kilometers from Guilin and twenty five kilometers from Yangshuo), on the east bank of the river. The town is surrounded by enthralling scenery and the charm of the town is more than enhanced by the surrounding hills and is infused with typical Lingnan or southeastern Chinese provincial culture.

There are forty eight traditional residences that have been preserved throughout the years and their special features include blue brickwork, black tiles, sloping roofs, horse head walls, cornices and carved windows. The houses are classic examples of Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynastic architecture. The town is located at the foot of Wuzhi Hill and the locals like to think that the it resembles a monk and a nun bickering, along with Chaoban Hill looking like a tablet held by officials in court in ancient times.

Arhat Hill is also said to look like a smiling Arhat monk exposing his breast to the sun. Well, they are mountains and they…look like…mountains!

Just like Yangshuo, travelling the in the Xingping area you can experience the life of local fishermen. Their fishing techniques are unlike anything most people will have seen as they use a bamboo rafts instead of a wooden boat along with using cormorants to catch the fish. They do this by tying a noose around a bird's long neck to prevent it from swallowing its catch.

Beers N Noodles toya…..shane ___________________________________________________________

The soundtrack to this entry was by Beastie Boys The album was 'Pauls Boutique’ ____________________________________________________________

Yangshuo Ancient XingPing Ride

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Posted by eddakath 17:00 Archived in China Comments (0)

Secret Beach & Stone Bridge Roast

Hey Hey and a Big G'Day toya,

Are you sure you want the English Breakfast? But honey that comes with baked beans and white tea.

Absolutely priceless was look of disgust on her face when she first tried baked beans and then her white tea with sugar. But my joy ended when she snaffled my bread rolls, New Zealand butter and blackberry jam in return for her baked beans. She had never tried real butter or jam prior so it was awesome to see her smile when the waitress returned with her second helping. Spaghetti? Well, one night not so long ago when we were kicking back at the Red Star Caf&eacute; enjoying a lovely evening with Emmanuel, Amy and Kristina she decided to order what would have to be the most bland dish on any menu in all of the world, Spaghetti with tomatoes and tomato sauce. I tried to tell her but for some reason the Chinese translation on the menu must have read that it was full of chili and after her first few mouthfuls and not even a slight reaction, the fork was quietly placed upon the mountain of left spaghetti and she quietly fumbled around for a while.

I guess the real Polaroid moment was my reaction when I lost half of my spicy chicken burger….yep, she is a Sneaky Snacky!

Watching JiangNi try new foods is very much the same as when new foreign teachers arrive at a school I’m teaching at. During their first massive Welcome Dinner they are usually introduced to many new foods and it’s usually the 'inners & outers’ that find them squirming with a face that could out shine any Sylvester Stallone Polaroid moment. Better yet are the &#8216;should be’ You Tube moments when a foreigner tries BBQ’d pigs eyes and penis for the first time. You’d think that nothing could actually beat that that is until you tell them what they actually just ate.

A Beers N Noodles priceless moment! Anyhow, doesn’t everyone love a good secret? Especially when everyone else already knows about it. But then again, this visit was the first time I had actually heard about it. If I tell you more about it, shhhhh! You can’t tell anyone else ok, it’s a secret!

If you head down to the Li River and walk east along Bingjiang Lu you will find yourself beneath a canopy of green that keeps both the hot sun and any light sprinkle from bothering you and after a peaceful five to ten minute walk there is a small V intersection. If you continue on the larger road you will soon come across the Yangshuo Thai Chi & Kungfu School along a small handful of hostels/hotels and eateries mostly run by foreigners who have chosen to move away from the West Street area.

Obviously they are a tad older than most and are looking for a bit of peace.

If you turn right at the V and follow the Li River you will soon come across a tiny riverside bar run by a Chinese architect, his wife and extremely social son who adored JiangNi so much he wouldn’t allow her to leave. We had walked and ridden past it several times thinking it was someone’s home but one time the heaven’s opened and we dived in for cover. The place was simply decorated yet very comfortable and pleasant on the eye. The family was more than welcoming and sat talking to us as the rain continued to pour Woks & Chopsticks outside. Their son’s computer is found on a bench sitting over the top of a small bed/bath &#8216;thing’ and if I ever own a house it will be one of the first thing’s you’ll find me destroying whilst trying to construct.

If you continue past this little gem into the next village you are near Secret Beach. Now because it’s such a secret I’m not sure if I should tell you how to find it.

But I’ll give you a small hint, if you grab a cold bottle of water at the little family hole in the wall store you will no doubt soon see swarms of motor scooters, hills of mountain bikers, totem poles of tandem bikers, flocks of local families and chickarees of children being very mysterious about the location of where they have been or are going with all of their floaties, water rings, towels, picnic bags of snacks and eskies of beer and meat sticks.

But I think the real give away maybe that most of them will be mysteriously wet. So maybe they have been secretly swimming somewhere nearby?

Besides any day being the perfect day to visit Secret Beach, the real gem is actually a Sunday as if you ring the Stone Bridge Caf&eacute;/Hotel (or catch up with Simon at the Alley Bar) the day/night prior you can end the weekend with a perfect English Roast that has been slow cooked by English Simon and Andy and it is a real roast born of real ingredience and care. The Stone Bridge Caf&eacute;/Hotel is owned and run by an Australian guy and his Hong Konganese wife who got a little tired of running both the hotel and eatery so Simon being the roast mitted enturaurpnaur that he is called his buddy Andy and wallah so arrived a real English Roast in Yangshuo.

Beers N Noodles toya…..shane ___________________________________________________________

The soundtrack to this entry was by Mr Bungle The album was &#8216;Mr Bungle’ ____________________________________________________________

Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast


Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

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Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast


Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast


Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast


Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast


Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast


Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast


Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast


Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast


Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast


Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast


Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast


Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast


Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast


Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast


Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast


Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast


Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast


Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast


Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast


Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

Secret Beach &#38;amp; Stone Bridge Sunday Roast

Posted by eddakath 17:00 Archived in China Comments (0)

Ancient Puyi Town & Real Rural Villages.

Hey Hey and a Big G'Day toya,

Chicken Cordon Bleu. It’s all about Chicken Cordon Bleu!

Snacks are long gone as Sneaky Snacky simply can’t get enough of a chicken breast pounded and rolled around pork meat along with soft mozzarella cheese and then baked or fried (depending on the chef). Yep now I ask; hey honey, how about lunch or snacks? The answer is kind of like; have you gone mad, I just finished my snacks and when you come home from riding we need that garlic chicken thing! She could ask for braised stomach, throat, liver, arteries, tongue, even pig, duck or chicken’s feet or any other animal inners or outters for that matter. But now it’s all about a stuffed chicken breast (MMMmmm breasts!), with ham, Swiss cheese and mushroom sauce….who am I to argue!

Ok then, breasts, you want breasts? Garlic bread, can we have garlic bread too! Then let’s go find a pair of succulent breasts to feast upon!

For many years now, besides karst peak climbing, cycling in Yangshuo has been the single most popular activity. Not so long ago most of trails were not paved, but over the last five or so years that has become history, yet thankfully still some of the most spectacular sceneries can only be visited using old dirt roads.

When I meet newbie’s in Yangshuo they always ask me if they should hire a guide and my reply is that a guide is actually very useful as they can introduce you to local family life where after several hours of riding (and not getting lost) they will have chance to sit in a small village home and dine with chickens racing to and fro around their feet.

What most backpackers/tourists don’t realise is that if you don’t hire a guide then memorable moments such as these simply won’t happen and the fact is, most tourists to this area dream about moments such as these. I also know that many foreigners, usually those that have only been here for several weeks (and have never really been to 'China’) will say, but that’s not real man, you don’t need to pay for a guide, they just want your money, etc etc, bla blaa blaah! Yet I’m sure when they left Beijing or Shanghai they probably almost wet their pants. Hiring a guide offers both the guide and her (always a female) family to upgrade from bathing in the local river to building a small toilet area where they can install a shower etc and live a more hygienic lifestyle.

It simply allows them more of what they had prior to their daughter or the mother offering guidance to funny looking foreigners and domestic tourists.

It also allows them to upgrade their kitchen area and offer the latter people’s not only to eat a normal local village meal but it also allows the family to take the next step, that of offering a cuisine they probably couldn’t afford before. So your money goes both ways, it gives your local guides family the chance to eat foods that only your money can buy but you also not only get to eat it but to dine in a real local village home with a real local village family.

The same &#8216;little travelled’ foreigners will also say, but it’s not a real local village!

The simple fact is, it is a local village and it has been standing, harvested and a society for much longer than the domestication of not only white Australia but also Canada and America. Now due to tourism though, they simply have more money to offer you more of what your dreams were made of prior to arriving in China. I find it so amusing that most foreigners want to &#8216;have the ancient village’ adventure, yet if out of Yangshuo etc they pronounce it dirty or disgusting, yet if they experience it in and around a tourist area such as Yangshuo then it becomes &#8216;so totally not real’ due to the fact that the family no longer has to bathe in the same place they kill their chickens etc.

Honestly being a very long term traveller in rural areas of China opens my eyes to what my own kind expect, believe and accept what is real and what is not real.

Dining in a rural village? How can that not be acceptable? Has the home and village not been there for hundreds of years? Are you not eating a chicken or part of a pig raised in the same village?

<u>Anyhow, back to Puyi Village.</u>

As Puyi Village is a nearly thirty kilometer round trip there are not too many people who want to ride to Puyi. Most are only in Yangshuo for several days so they do the Moon Hill ride followed by a rafting adventure or two. This visit, many people have asked me, is Puyi Village worth the ride? For me as a bike rider of course it is but for most it isn’t and that is the reason I wrote the above. Puyi is an ancient village but unlike Yangshuo nothing has ever changed so most tourists would simply arrive breathless wondering where the ancient village is.

Well, it is right there!

Just like West Street in Yangshuo, Puyi Village was built around its one main street but here there has been no renovating so it is uninviting. I’d guess that most tourists would ride around wondering where the attraction is yet Puyi Village dates back to the Ming and Qing Dynasties and most buildings are actually over six hundred years old. There is a Pagoda, a temple, a cave and the mountains are covered in lush vegetation that clings to the sheer karst rock faces. Surrounding the village are rice fields and orange groves and the fact that barely any one comes here due to its remote location away from the typical tourist routes make this a picturesque and tranquil place to visit.

As an added extra, there are several other villages to be visited to and from Yangshuo.

<u>Langzi Village</u>

Found around eight kilometers from Gaotian Town, most tourists don’t know about this village. Several years ago I found this village while exploring this area and even today I was amazed at the fact that no other tourists were to be found in this beautiful and quiet village as it remains very authentic in its way of life and its preservation.

<u>Jiuxin Village</u>

Located around half a kilometer from the Yulong River and five kilometers from Yangshuo, Jiuxin Village was built in the Tang Dynasty (around one thousand five hundred years ago) and was once the main town in this area prior to people relocating to Yangshuo. The name Jiuxi means old and important town and for some reason the local government during the Tang Dynasty dictated that Yangshuo was to become the new trading base of the county.

For the bike riders amongst us, ride to Puyi Village and on your return take any left turn and head towards Moon Hill. You will come across countless small villages and picturesque opportunities and it is impossible to get lost as the two main roads between are well sign posted to and from both Moon Hill and Yangshuo. Then when you arrive back to Yangshuo, return your bike and head to either The Alley Bar or The Red Caf&eacute;, choose from their great menu selection and then head to Moyo’s Roof Top Bar and experience a great night playing Beer Pong!

Beers N Noodles toya…..shane ___________________________________________________________

The soundtrack to this entry was by Bad Religion The album was &#8216;All Ages’ ____________________________________________________________

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

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Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

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Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

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Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

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Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

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Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

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Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

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Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

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Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

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Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

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Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

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Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

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Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure


Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Yangshuo Puyi Town Adventure

Posted by eddakath 17:00 Archived in China Comments (0)

An Ancient Village Beneath Moon Hill

Hey Hey and a Big G'Day toya,

It’s the first ride I took in Yangshuo in 2000. It’s also the first ride all visitors to Yangshuo take. It is a huge slice of rock with a round hole in its center. You climb eight hundred steps on a mountain path to reach it. At various angles it resembles from the new moon to a full moon. The rock measures 380 m (height) by 410 m (length) by 220 m (width).

Legend has it that there is a Guanghan Palace on the moon inhabited by the beauty Chang'e, the Jade Rabbit, and Wu Gang the woodcutter. People in olden days thought they saw these immortals when they came upon spots on the moon's surface. These days’ Chinese tourists all point out the naturally formed rock images of Chang'e, the Jade Rabbit and Wu Gang the woodcutter and the Western tourist who can’t see a single one of them simply raises an eyebrow and smiles.

When JiangNi and I travel together, during the day Sneaky Snacky morphs into Sleepy Snacky and while I’m out and about sweating all of the previous night’s beer she’s happily at home sleeping and dreaming about snacking. Strangely, over the past week she has surprised me on several occasions by calling me and asking what time I will be back. I ask if she needs snacks and a big kiss, she giggles and the first time she told me that she wanted to ride one of those bikes with the many seats.

I informed her that there are no ferris-wheels in Yangshuo and we’d have to go to Guilin. She told me I was stupid and to hurry home, with snacks of course!

Another time I was too tired to ride until dusk and returned home with snacks and there was no answer. I called her phone and when she answered I asked why she had her phone in the shower. She laughed and called me an idiot and informed me that she was at Moon Hill riding. After coughing and spluttering from shock I asked her to open the door, she told me not to eat the snacks and to come and find her. Honestly I could buy the girl flowers but they’d have to be made of chili tofu or she’d probably go outside and sell them (for profit of course, she’s a numbers girl after all) and spend the money on snacks. Another time I came home around five wanting a cold shower and to relax before dinner and she’s like;

No, no shower, I relaxed enough for both of us today. We still have more than two hours of light. Let’s get a bike with many seats again.

Yes, I have a girlfriend who demands that I ride a bike who rarely uses an umbrella in the sun and I ask you what’s more beautiful than a Chinese girl. That would be a Chinese girl with a suntan of course…awesome!

<u>Big Banyan Tree</u>

On the way to Moon Hill can be found the prominent and towering Big Banyan Tree.

It has survived the wild Guangxi weather centuries and was planted during the Sui Dynasty (581-618). It found its fame after parts of the film 'Third Sister Liu' (Lui Sanjie) was shot there when beneath its leaves 'Third Sister Liu’ declared her admiration to her lover A'niu. For those who have seen the spectacular &#8216;Impressions Lui Sanjie’, it is this story that Zhang Yimou (who also directed the opening to the Beijing Olympics) followed when creating the Yangshuo Impressions extravaganza. The Big Banyan Tree has a girth of seven meters and is seventeen meters high and even during the mid summer heat its branches and leaves stretch out so lushly that barely any sunshine penetrates its canopy leaving all those sitting below in comfort.

<u>Moon Hill Ancient Village</u>

If you ride past the entrance to Moon Hill, take the next small road on your right and continue to follow it you will end up in a small village that has finally woken to the fact that money can be made if it advertises its ancient heart of worn smooth linked pathways. I was shown this village many years ago by a guy who had been teaching in Guilin city for a number of years and continually returned to Yangshuo most weekends to see his girlfriend and like me, to find that elusive ancient village!

There is now a large billboard at the beginning of the road along with a small entry fee of ten Yuan.

Several families have opened small eateries where you can taste some of the local cuisine and from what I understood there are even several rooms available. During this visit I came across a family whose daughters English was awesome. She tried to find out the name of the village for me and after asking a bent and twisted gnarly old lady she translated it as &#8216;A Village Under The Hill’. Sadly I couldn’t find out anything else as they were leaving and I had just arrived. Even though it is only small, the village does offer visitors a chance to experience what a real &#8216;ancient village’ is like compared to most of the others they ride through to and from Moon Hill and Yangshuo.

With its tranquil scenery comprised of leveled rice terraces along with several crystal clear brooks I’m sure there will be one or two hostels here by the time I return in several years.

Beers N Noodles toya…..shane ___________________________________________________________

The soundtrack to this entry was by Fish. The album was &#8216;Internal Exile’. ____________________________________________________________

Ancient Village Adventure

Ancient Village Adventure


Ancient Village Adventure

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Ancient Village Adventure

Posted by eddakath 17:00 Archived in China Comments (0)