A Travellerspoint blog

July 2006

Walking Jinnin N Qingyang Districts

Well, the last day in Chengdu has arrived.

We were supposed to be on the bus and out of here to Songpan today but the bus station we needed to go to get tickets was way over in the north western side of the city and would have been closed last night after returning from Qingcheng Shan. This morning was designated as a sleep in morning. I took it on board and woke just after 10:30am.

Not a bad effort I must say.

So, for those wanting to head to Songpan after Chengdu you'll need to head to the Chadianzi Bus Station way out in the Jinnin District. Just down from the Soma Hostel on the road running along the river we caught Bus No: 82. It was a great ride. It went back over the river and slowly made its way out north west. It took about forty five minutes to get there. On the way we watched in wonder at the Chinese traffic chaos all around us.

I don't know how but it just seems to work!

There are only three buses heading to Songpan a day. There is the 6:30, 7:00 or the 7:30 and the trip is supposed to take around seven hours. After grabbing our 75 Yuan tickets for 7:30 tomorrow morning we headed back out to grab Bus No: 82. On the way to the bus station we decided to grab the bus ten minutes back into the city and walk the rest of the way, or maybe i decided to and poor Judy agreed (much to her regret now at 10:10pm).

At fifteen minutes we jumped off and found a little eatery to eat brunch. The food was awesome and the price nearing a quater of what we pay in the city for Chinese food. Can't give the name of the place as i have no idea how to read Chinese. Anyhow, it was near a shoe shop called 'Mexican'.

After brunch we began zig zagging our way back into the heart of the city. We wound our way through the outta cities little back streets, visited some shoddy open air market places and said our normal quota of 1 billion hellos for the day. The walk took us through the Qingyang District and we ended up at Huanghua Brook Park that runs between the 2nd and 1st Ring Roads. From the 1st ring road we followed the river back to the big ship and headed home for a rest before heading to The Highfly Pizza Bar. Here I had Set Menu 2.

MMMMmmm, fruit salad, spag bol and a cool lemon tea.

For those of you whom have a spare day, don't know what to do with their day or just can't decide, in big cities I started the 'Catch the bus for ten to fifteen minutes and get off' thing in Japan six years ago. It's the best way possible to get to know a city and find it's pokey little streets and old sections that no one else really knows about.

Do it, you'll be supprised at what you find.

Beers N Noodles to ya...shane

Jinnin & Qingang District Walk

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Posted by eddakath 17:00 Archived in China Comments (0)

A Relaxing Day at Qingcheng Shan

Hey Hey and it's time to climb a mountain day

As we skipped the Emei Shan (Shan means mountain) climb we decided to make up for it with a day spent at Quingcheng Shan. It was up early and up stairs for breaakfast. It all began to go SLOOOOOW from there. It took one and a half hours for two breakfasts to be made. A simple bacon and egg breakfast x 2. We then headed accross the river to Ximen Bus Station and paid our 22 Yuan for our ticket to the mountain. By now it was 11:30 and we were ready just after nine. We boarded the bus and there we sat for a further thirty minutes. We left the bus station and finally left the city an hour later.

We finally arrived at Qingcheng Shan nearing 2:30pm...YIPPEE!

We paid the 90 Yuan entry fee, grabbed a one way cable car ticket for 35 Yuan.

We did buy a map for 5 Yuan from the tour guide desk and returned it as we bound a better one for 3 Yuan...then we bought our tickets to find an even better map on the back of the ticket...SO DON'T BUY A MAP IF YOU COME HERE!

We headed in and walked up to the Yu Cheng Lake. Was going to buy a Mizone until I found out it was 8 Yuan instead of 3.5 or 4 Yuan. Paid the 5 Yuan ferry ticket and decided to join in in the Chinese 'mad dash to get on the ferry'. Didn't want a seat or anything just wanted to play! The ferry ride is only 5 minutes so as usual I was left shaking my head as to the reason for the mad dash in the first place. At the other side is the Cable Car and once again 'the mad dash' began to the cable car. People tried pushing past us in line and we gave lound GRRRRS and GROWLED until the little men with their important hats on came over and created some sort of line.

The Cable Car ride was pretty cool. Though your not far from the ground it was nice no to have to walk to the top. There were some pretty cool paintings or painted rock carvings just as you reach the top. You get off at Yu Qing Palace. This place has just been revamped as everything is brightly painted and beautiful. Looks great in photos though! From there you walk up to Shang Qing Palace and then further up to La Jun Ge.

This all took around one and a half hours with no further entry fees other than the main.

We decided to do the walk down. We allowed up to two hours as that then left thirty or so minutes to find a bus home as the last bus is at 7pm back to Chengdu. To start this walk head down to Yu Qing Palace and when facing 'down' head left before the big stairs down to the cable car. It is a beautiful walk. Even though you head back up again for some time at the start, you do actually head back down. There is an 'ancient' (not a 'new' ancient either!) temple a beautiful old stone bridge and soem other sites to see on your walk down. It took us only one hour and fifteen minutes to do the walk down, but I'm stupid and love running down stairs. Good thing is I get a rest whilst I wait for Judy. When she catches up, to her disgust I then run off again.

We grabbed a local bus home that was full of Chinese whom were all yelling at each other around us. It was so funny, one of the drivers friends obviously loved tunnels and when ever the bus neared a tunnel he jumped up and down in his seat, yelled something at the bus drive whom was sitting right next to him we doubled the speed through the tunnel (signs saying 40kms plastered all over the walls!). We also got to watch the same VCD disk three times on the way home too. About five minutes from the bus station 'Tunnel Man' decided to change the disk and we laughed so much and when he finally understood why we were laughing he joined in.

On the way to the hostel we dropped in at Daves & Pauls Oasis for dinner. This time I had the Chicken Salad and it was awesome! We then headed up the road for a 15 Yuan body massage for around 45 minutes. Crap, crap, crap...a freakin baby could pinch harder! I asked for the massage where they stand on your back and hold on to the rails whilst using their feet to massage you. Instead I was treated to 45 minutes of baby taps all the while waiting for someone to stand on my back.

The fact that Judy was for once happy with hers and I wasnt for the first time;

IS A REAL BUGGER FOR ME!

Beers N Noodles to ya....shane

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Posted by eddakath 17:00 Archived in China Comments (0)

Giant Pandas...How Cute Are They!

Hey Hey and a Big G'Day to you all

Awesome day today.?We headed to the 'Panda Factory' (The Giant Panda Breeding and Research Base).?It was a great day even though we didn't see many things coloured black and white move.?The little Red Pandas were at least up and about even though they were panting like buggery.?I guess you probably have to get there at seven or so in the morning, prior to breakfast to see them playing like children.?We weren't too worried though, they were just as cute sleeping.?They end up in the strangest positions.?it's so funny watching them move about trying to get comfortable and when they do find a comfortable position to me it is the weirdest and most uncomfortable postion.?The day was bloody hot and we were envious of the Giant Pandas and their airconditioned rooms.?The poor Red Pandas had to do their best in the outside heat.?

OK, how to get there...

1: You could join a tour with a hostel etc for around 70 Yuan (that's a HUGE 40 Yuan bus fare or 20 Yuan to and 20 Yuan from....unfreaking believable mate!) OR

2: Give the following ago.?Worked for me and you get to ride on the Double Decker Bus No: 1!?I shouldn't tell you but it's so crammed and hot that it is actually fun...for me anyhow!?

OK...we caught Big Bus No: 1 from right outside Soma's Hostel (for only 1 Yuan!).?For around thirty or forty minutes it weaves and winds it's way to the outta suburbs and ends at Qinglongcheng (say Chinglongchen) Bus Station.?

Once out of the city I began to feel so much more comfortable.?As soon as we entered the dusty old area I began to miss my little Tianyang.?I'd much rather stay in a place like this than in the city for an extended period of time.?BUT, Chengdu's cool for now!

Once you reach Qinglongchen Bus Station walk right next door to the 'Long Distance' Bus Station and catch the small local bus number one.?You don't have to leave the local bus station as there is a walk through.?I think the long distance station is called Zhaojuesi Bus Station, but who knows.?Who knows why my map has two names for the bus station. Anyhow, bus number one...there seems to be two of them running from the long distance station, one with number one in a red circle and the other in blue circle.?The red said no and the blue said yes to us. So, for a further 1 Yuan we made it to the Giant Panda Research Base in a further twenty minutes.?You know when you arrive as there is a HUGE Panda statue in the middle of the road and it says in large letters?THE GLOBAL 500 AWARD' or something.?

So, thats a saving of 18 Yuan on bus fare one way and 36 for the day!

Unfreakin believable how much hostels and hotels change!

For your return journey, stand outside the gate and down the road a little...away from the 'You Buy You Buy' people anyhow.?Wave down bus number and take it back to Qinglongchen.?Here you can walk accross the road and have lunch in a local eatery.?The one where we ate the food was awesome and the family who ran it was full of smiles.?Costs half of what you pay in the city too.?We had a huge storm going on outside so we got to watch the family members chase their shops signs up and down the road for five or so minutes.?

When your ready, simply catch the big Double Decker Bus No: 1 back into the city and get off where ever you please.?Great thing about the return journey is the bus begins here so you can grab the front seats upstairs for a great view of the city as you head home.?

To get into the park it cost us 30 Yuan which is the same for everyone.?I know these things as I always watch what the Chinese pay before I do.?If they pay less I get very VERY SNAPPY!?Not much more to say really.?You walk around a beautiful park under a tunnel made of bamboo so your out oif the sun for most of it.?During the day not much happens in the outdoor panda pens.?You do get to go into some of the little panda houses.?

We spent some of our time happily telling the Chinese famiies NOT to bash on the windows to try and wake the pandas.?No shit, the family stands there as the father teaches the kids to bash on the windows and yell.?It's unbelievable the total disrespect most of the Chinese have towards animals and signs right before their eyes.?If you have the courage to yell at them to stop, say it to the father as he then looks bad before the children and they will simply leave.?

I know it sounds horrible but it has to start somewhere!

There is also a little cinema where you can sit and watch a twenty or so minute movie on the history of pandas and hand breeding and raising them.?It's played in Chinese and then in English.?Once again you'll have to speak up to actually hear the movie in English.?Families walk in at any time though the movie and if it's in English they'll all begin talking and if you've never been to China then please understand this.?Most of the Chinese don't 'talk', they yell at each other.?Most of us can't understand why when they are right next to each other.?I spend half the day shaking my head at the things I just can't comprehend and this is one of them.?

After both Judy and I yelled 'Please be quiet or Ching ung Ching!' we finally got to watch and actually hear the movie.?I know some of the things I write sound rude but this is what happens and in China if you don't speak up you'll never get a bus ticket or hear anything.?They just keep pushing in and your left standing there in an invisable line.?THERE ARE NO LINES!?You actually have to make one.?Once you've yelled at the person trying to push in and put your arms out to stop them passing the rest won't even try, they actually get into some form of line and wait their turn.

After the movie we grabbed our overpriced drinks and sat outside chatting to a very lucky Chinese guy.?He was a tour leader and gets to travel to Australia and New Zealand nearly every month.?Unlucky for him, the route never changes and he only gets to spend 1 night on the Gold Coast, 1 night in Melbourne and 4 nights in Sydney before heading to New Zealand.?He loves his job and I can understand why.?The actual flight seating is more comfortable and cleaner than most Chinese rural housing.?Then there are the clean Aussie hotels (not hostels) etc.?He was great to talk to and he was in Chengdu leading a tour of twenty or so rather plumpish wealthy Israelies.?

After saying good bye we headed to the front gate and checked out the Panda History Museum.?Not bad for thirty or so minutes.?If your going to buy anything don't buy it here, buy it out front from the 'You Buy You Buy' people.?Judy got some panda badges from out front and paid 12 down from 25.?To check the price (after payment...tut tut Judy) she priced them at another stall and they began at 10 for the same thing.?

Now thats a real bugger for Judy!

As we waited for local bus number 1 to come along lightening and thunder began above.?The You Buy You Buy people began packing in a frenzy.?Some didn't bother packing and hurriedly began wheeling their panda wears down the road.?After lunch and when the storm finally calmed down we caught the big bus home.?We of course grabbed the top front seats.?How cool where we!

We got home pretty late and walked around the city for a time before sitting for some internet.?the two machines at Somas are much too slow, that is when both are working,?Found an International IP phone and called home for the usual 3.6 Yuan a minutes.?You can call internationally from Somas in your room but it's 5 Yuan a minute.?Bugger that mate!

Anyhow Beers, Noodles and Pandas to ya...shane

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Posted by eddakath 17:00 Archived in China Comments (0)

The Dirtiest Mall N The Awesome Sichuan Opera

Hey Hey and a Big G'Day to you Today was pretty much the same as yesterday, it was a day spent walking the streets finding little nooks and crannys, entering department stores to stare at all the things we didn't need or couldn't afford if we did.

The difference was we decided to add Markets into the walk. As most would know, I love Asian Markets. The are so full of colour, strange aroma's and 'things' to see. We found several markets during the day, most were full of things you really didn't need to eat. We saw plastic bags jumping accross the footpath, soem with fish soem with frogs inside. There ware the usualy innards and outards squashed all over the floor with small children playing with them.

This day I found the worst market I have ever entered. It was so bad that even I felt my stomach crawl. The worst part is it was just down the road from where we stopped for lunch in a little hole in the wall wok em up. The lady had to run out of the shop to get soem veggies. We figured she was off to the market. So after lunch we decided to check the market out. BAD MISTAKE! The veggies were so old, dry and tired. The meat was hard, dry and fly blown and worst of all was near the end of it was the live chickens etc. Here the floor was covered in dry blood, feathers and inches high with grime. This I've seen many times and can actually walk through. But worst of all, the peoples living areas were down here. The 'yuk N filth' entered their tiny one roomed living areas. It covered their TV's and beds. I left actually feeling sick. It took some time before the smell cleared from my nostrils.

To be continued...tis time for a beer and some bbq....catchya in fonts real soon...shane

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Posted by eddakath 17:00 Archived in China Comments (0)

Playing Ping Pong At The Temple N Horrid Karaoke

Hey Hey and G'Day to you all,

Today was a day spent walking around the city finding all those little pokey places I love. In between we visited temples and spent some money on new clothes. We began on our side of the river and found the heart of the city. The actual heart which may have once been a huge concrete park is now one hell of a mess. It's been totally stripped of concrete and is now a building site. Beneath the ground they are building a new city subway, or so we are led to believe from the cartoon posters. Hey maybe it's just going to be a huge underground car park...who knows!

Above the construction site watching in great detail is a HUGE statue of none other than Chairman Mao in all his glory! After starving more people to death than were killed in the second world war...nah, won't go there subject change...we headed Mc Donalds and sat and ate plastic junk food as the chairman watched over us. How does he feel standing there day after day watching as Mc Donalds, KFC, Pizza Hut, Star Bucks and Coke Cola take over his country and people. Oh, sorry I forgot to add 'Kenny Rogers Roasters (Chicken)to that list! It's true, there is actually a eatery called Kenney Rogers Roasters.

Does anyone actually know if Kenney Rogers tried to do a Planet Hollywood here in Chengdu or has another Chinese plucked a name from a bamboo pointy hat? Maybe we could have Barbara Edens Eatery, Michael Jacksons Juice (where you need an id card stating your under the age of 10 to actually get in! The sign at the door would say 'No parents allowed!), Omah Sharrif's Snack Shack, Brad Pitts Peanuts...etc etc, you get the idea.

From the city center we headed to Wenshu Temple (5 Yuan). Beautiful place and very clean and quiet. Beware the beggars outside, give them an inch of rope and they want to be a cowboy. Doesn't matter with these guys, give them money and it just seems to make them beg for more and more and more. The same little bugger just keeps coming at you over and over again.

True, I know and hear you. They must get money from somewhere! With missing limbs etc they can't work for it. Yes, but it would be nice to receive a smile at least. This place is much bigger than I thought. Judy and I played table tennis for while half way though the grounds to the amusement of some of the monks walking on by. The veggie eatery is bloody huge mate and serves things that look like things made from dead animals but in fact no animal actually died in it's making, only the poor plants and tofu's.

I still for the life of me can't figure out why people who don't eat meat want to eat things that look like meat. I don't like potato so why would I want to eat a sausage made to look like a potato. I don't like Pamela Anderson, so why would I want to eat...oops, a girlfriend that looks like Pamela Anderson? All of us think and do strange things that others just can't understand or grasp.

I seem to think and do more than most I know so hey, what can I say!

After another hour of walking around the city and little pokey places we headed to Renmin Park or The Peoples Park. For all those whom WILL come to Chengdu, please, I beg you, you MUST head to Renimn Park and sit for an hour watching and listening to the dancing and karaoke. In most places I visit I will always head to the parks and gardens and sit and watch and listen to the locals dance and sing. Have you ever had those experiences where something is so bad that it is actually awesomely good and it fills you with warmth and joy just experiencing it. Well, that is what some of the parks are like here in China. The occupants are from a different era, they squawk and play their instruments in a tune only people from their era can accept.

I really do try so hard.

I sit and ponder and clutch at straws to find an actual tune to some of the songs they scream and dance to. Sadly I can't yet I walk away with a warm filling inside at their happiness at being caught in a time only they can understand and grasp!

After more hours of walking the streets, finding Malls and Dept Stores for Judy and little pokey places for me we decided it was time to fill our stomachs. We headed well away from the Chairmans constant watch over Chengdu's city center and decided to once again go for western food. WOW, twice in one day! We decided on Sams Hostel which is only a street or two down from the center of the city. Here we were told there actually wasn't a cafe there. What they didn't tell us was Sam's had a cafe just up the road.

You see, this is what it is like in China. They literally did answer our question. We asked if there was a cafe here and they said no and that was that. It's sometimes like they don't know how or were never taught to think beyond that. When you go to buy a ticket at the bus or train station and ask for a ticket say to Emei Shan from Ya'an. If there isn't a bus or a train within an hour usually they will just say, no there isn't a train. Unless you speak Chinese it is impossible to get what we consider normal answers from them.

Oh, I'm sorry, there isn't a bus 'this morning' or 'in the next hour' BUT there is one this afternoon. Here we would say, Great, thats cool, I'll take it! From what I can gather they are taught to take the English language 'literally!'

Is there a bus...no there isn't....and thats that, no more information needed or given!

After getting Judy's memory card burnt our stomachs told us we really needed to be fed. Whilst walking we had a guy come out of a shop and try to guide us inside whilst saying...'This way please' It was so funny we nearly did. We found Sam's Cafe whilst walking along the road. Whey they didn't just say, 'No there isn't any food at the hostel but we do have a Sam's Cafe just up the road' I will never know. Her English was fine too and so was the massive burger that I ate at Sams. It was a monster. It was so big I nearly had to sit on it to flatten it down.

The rest of the night was spent, you guessed it...WALKING! Best way to see everything. The craziest thing I've found so far in Chengdu city is the multi story Cruise Ship that has been converted into shops and expensive KTV/Disco's type things. As crazy as it sounds it's actually a great idea when you think about it. The most horrible thing about Chengdu is the pollution. It is horrible. The sky is a constant grey/white haze which makes for some real bad lighting for photos. Other than that, the city itself if pretty cool. The people seem friendly, you can buy anything you need and it is a pretty cool mixture of modern and old...for now!

Beers N Noodles to ya...you guessed it, now I have to WALK accross the river to get home.

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Posted by eddakath 17:00 Archived in China Comments (0)