A Travellerspoint blog

March 2000

The Haenyo Women, Manjanggul Lava Cave N Sea-Food

Hey Hey and a Big G'Day toya, After leaving our warm cocoon to head out and watch the sun rise we quickly found that we wouldn't be able to watch the sun rise as it was cloudy, cold and beginning to rain. We quickly ran inside and happily stayed there for several hours. Sadly no abalone for breakfast this morning. Bugger! After fresh fruit we packed our things and headed back to Jeju city to catch the ferry back to the mainland. When we arrived we happily (for Kim and I) found that the ferries had been cancelled for the day due to storm warnings and rough weather. We quickly found a hotel, dropped our things off and decided to head out for breakfast to discuss what to do with the day. It seemed today we were in search of Haenyo. Ok, what a Haenyo? I asked. Haenyo are women who spend their lives diving Cheju-do's cold waters in search of abalone, conch, fish and what ever else they can catch to make a living. Whilst they dive their husbands stay home and take care of the family side of things. How sweet! After breakfast we headed to the foreshore and spent an hour or so walking and taking pictures of us in front of Dragon Rock. We then began another coastal journey this time in search of Haenyo. Not long into our journey we found what we were looking for and stopped to watch the crazy women diving into the freezing cold water returning with what ever they could catch. After waving good bye we I began to notice how many rocks there are on Cheju-do. Most houses and fields have high fences made from rocks surrounding them. These act as a barrier against the strong sea winds. We then headed to Cheju-do's second Natural Wonder of the World. Manjanggul Cave is the worlds larges lava tube and was designated a Natural Monument in 1970. It is thirteen and a half kilometers long and fifteen meters high and it was awesome to walk through. As we walked Kim translated what the guide was saying for me. What really did make me think was when the guide told us to imagine the huge size of the lava that left the volcano to leave such a huge cave! After leaving the cave we spent the rest of the day driving along the rocky coast line finding beautiful little places to stop and walk and spend time together. Later in the afternoon we headed back to Jeju City and spent several hours walking around the fish markets as Kim wanted to buy her family a heap of dried fish and sea-weed. It was such a great afternoon. We also purchased a heap of seafood for our last dinner on beautiful Cheju-Do. After a beautiful evening feasting on fresh seafood we all took a walk around the streets and then headed back to the hotel for an early evening. Beers N Cheers toya....shane <u>Accommodation:</u></b> Motel in Jeju City ______________________________________ The soundtrack to this entry was Aussie Dave Graney The album was 'Heroic Blues' *****(2007) So, Cheju-Do, why did I not see another foreigner on the island? For the life of me I couldn't figure it out. Not only does it have a dormant volcano and two Natural Wonders of the World, but it also has the Haenyo diving women and an historic Village where people still live and practice Shamanism. Along with that are the fresh sea-foods and the market places, then add the amazingly beautiful coastal drive. Cheju-do really is one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. But then again, I was in a car and had a beautiful Hawaiian girl from Korea! One of my most memorable travel experiences! Abalone fishing on your private beach! Unbelievable!

Dragon Rock N Lava Cave

Dragon Rock N Lava Cave


Dragon Rock N Lava Cave (1)

Dragon Rock N Lava Cave (1)


Dragon Rock N Lava Cave (2)

Dragon Rock N Lava Cave (2)

Posted by eddakath 17:00 Archived in South Korea Comments (0)

Abalone , An Historical Village N Changbang Falls

Hey Hey and a Big G'Day toya Do you want to know what we had for breakfast? Really! You do! After a beautiful night and watching the sun rise together Kim and I headed out onto the beach and were soon joined by her friends. Sadly I can never seem to remember their names and sadly they actually know no English. They really do seem to be such a happy couple whom I seem to get well with so far. I do know the 'she' owns many hair saloons in and around Seoul so they too seem to be quite comfortable money wise. I started off using their names but as Kim and I chatted last night I soon gave them new English names to make it easier for me. She became Snip and he became Korea. Anyhow back to breakfast. After meeting up on the beach we all headed out onto the rocks and spent an hour or more Abalone Fishing. Kim and Snip then wokked up a huge feast and combined it all with fresh fruit and soon we were all happily sharing not only a fruit and abalone breakfast but also the beach, the morning sun and peace and quiet! It was the most wonderful start to the day! After Korea and I cleared up and thanked the beautiful ladies for such a delicious breakfast we piled into the car and began the days' adventures. The island really is beautiful and everywhere we went and stopped offered magnificent views. We spent many hours following the beautiful rocky coast line stopping at several places to take photos and for snacks. We passed through beautiful Wapo and stopped at Togi-dong for something to eat before continuing on to Pyoseon-ri. Here we headed back inland to a village named Seongpo Village. This village is an historical village that has been around since 1423. People still live there and it continues to have its own traditions, culture, language and.............. 'SORCERY! ...whooo hooo! It has also been declared a World Heritage Site. We had such a fun time racing from here to there and spanking each others butts with batons once used to inflict pain and suffering on 'bad' people. We had a delicious lunch and shared traditional Korean tea and many happy smiles. The village really is a beautiful place to visit for many hours and adding to its beauty is the fact that it sits at the foot of Mount Halla. Mount Halla can be seen from almost anywhere on the island. It is a 1950 meter dormant volcano and it is beautiful! After leaving Seongpo Village we then made our way to Changbang Falls which is one of Cheju-Do's two Natural Wonders of the World. Changbang Falls is the only waterfall in the world that actually falls into the sea. It's around twenty or twenty five meters high and is a huge tourist attraction especially for couples and honeymooners to have their photo taken. After many hours of being romantic at the romantic waterfall it was time to make our way back to Hallim for a fresh sea food dinner and then to our foreshore Yogwan. Once back we the freshest of fresh sea-food shops and this time after choosing what was soon to be our feast we left with it and then chose a restaurant to cook it for us. WOW, how cool! Kim told me it was a very normal happening in cities or towns along the coast. What a great idea for everyone. One looks after, sells and kills and doesn't have to clean and cook! The other cleans and cooks and doesn't have to look after! Money for everyone! After another amazing meal we headed back to our Yogwan where Kim and I took a moon light stroll along the beach for several hours. Another perfect ending to a perfect day! Beers N Cheers toya....shane <u>Accommodation:</u></b> Beach front Yogwan at Hallim ______________________________________ The soundtrack to this entry was a band who actually wrote many hits, yet when most people hear them, they actually don't know the name of the band who wrote them. The band was 'Steely Dan' The album was 'Then and Now'

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (1)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (1)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (10)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (10)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (11)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (11)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (12)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (12)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (13)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (13)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (14)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (14)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (15)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (15)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (16)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (16)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (17)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (17)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (18)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (18)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (19)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (19)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (2)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (2)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (20)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (20)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (21)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (21)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (22)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (22)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (23)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (23)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (24)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (24)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (25)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (25)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (3)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (3)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (4)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (4)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (5)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (5)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (6)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (6)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (7)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (7)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (8)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (8)


Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (9)

Cheju-Do Folk Village &#38;amp; A Fun Day (9)

Posted by eddakath 17:00 Archived in South Korea Comments (0)

A Beautiful Hawaiian Girl From Korea!

Hey Hey and a Big G'Day toya, I have just had the most amazingly memorable and BEAUTIFUL afternoon on the island of Cheju! I really can't believe how lucky I have been the past few months. I have learnt how to open myself and allow happiness flow. I do believe this allows 'good people or souls' to find me also! This morning I woke to sunny skies and the feeling that my time in Wando was over for now. It was time to board the ferry across to Cheju-Du (island). I spent breakfast with the cute lady who runs the hostel and she even gave me a hug before I left. How sweet was that! Maybe she was thanking me for not killing her grandfather clock! By the time I boarded the ferry the wind had picked up and the day really wasn't so nice anymore. But I didn't allow that to change my happy mood. The ferry finally began its journey and we began bobbing our way through the waves. Soon many had their heads buried inside plastic bags and not long after that the stench of vomit made me leave the cabins and run for fresh air on the deck above. I have never seen or heard so many people being sick at the same time! I found a deck chair and sat to watch the waters of the South China Sea that surrounded me. I was soon joined by a beautiful Korean girl who wanted sit and chat as her friends were also below being sick. After getting through the formalities (me Shane, she Kim) she asked if I would like to have dinner with her when we arrived on Cheju-do. I then turned it around and asked if she would like to have dinner with me when we arrived. It was funny at the time. Had to be there! I was...Ha Ha! You weren't! Wah Wah! Several hours later after non stop talking we arrived on Cheju-do. Here is where things became even more excellent. Kim and I left the ferry and were waiting for her friends. I was scanning the people walking down the stairs for....I really didn't know. I kept saying, there they are, they are and she kept hitting me calling me stupid! Then she pointed at a car and said there they are. Ha Ha very funny I said. Over they drove, in we got and off we went. Excellent! They seemed to have a plan and soon we were in a little town called Hallim where we found a fresh sea-food restaurant, chose all things swimming and soon they were on plates or in bowls before us, cooked and no longer swimming. Heaven! We then drove for a short time and they checked out several Yogwans right on the beach front before they chose one that they were happy with that would offer a beautiful morning view of the beach and sunrise. Wewww! Hey Hey! I can't afford to stay in a place like this. It seemed I had no choice but to stay, play and not pay. I was a happy smiley boy! I found out that Kim now actually lives in Hawaii and had come home to not only see her family but to check on her 'real estate'. After making herself and her purse happy with real estate in South Korea she chose to combine her love of golf and the island of Hawaii and simply move there and play golf every day. Wewwwww! How lucky was I to have been on the same ferry as Kim! We stayed up all night talking and together we happily watched the sun rise over the water. Beers N Cheers toya....shane <u>Accommodation:</u></b> A most beautiful beach front Yogwan at Hallim ______________________________________ The soundtrack to this entry was Aussies 'You Am I' The album was their awesome 'Hi-Fi Way'

Cheju - Do

Cheju - Do

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Burial Mnds, Phrase Books N Tampons over Rice Wine

Hey Hey and a Big G'Day toya, What a most awesome couple of days I have had here on Wando Island. How unexpectedly beautiful is Wando Island! So here I am, about four hundred kilometers from Seoul city and only a ferry ride from Cheju-do and now I really don't want to go to Cheju-do as it is so beautiful here! I woke yesterday morning feeling so full of life. Maybe it was all the Vitamin C powder sticks that I ate along with the fruit! I headed out into the beautiful world full of blue skies and sunshine. I was going to head straight to the ferry terminal to see about ferry times but then after a short walk I realised where I was. I was in a small fishing village/town and there was no way I was going to leave here with out a few days of exploring, eating and drinking with the locals. The foreshore area is just beautiful and the little market place is a huge hive of activity. After an hour spent in the market place eating and walking around I decided to head out of town to see where the little road would take me. After climbing a few hills to grab some beautiful scenic shots I found a heap of burial mounds. Well I believe they are burial mounds as they remind me of the ones in Seoul. As I was walking listening to my walkman, there they were on the side of a hill. I stopped and kinda went...what the farrrrrrrk! After a short walk around them I headed down a dirt road that took me to some sort of little fishing boat port. The poor man who ran the place nearly keeled over and died when he saw me. After he got over the sight of a foreigner being down a dirt road in the middle of Korean now-where we sat and shared a bottle of beer together before I said my happy good byes. Does anyone think it's strange that everyone seems to drink no matter what time of day it is? I bloodywell do! It gets a little worrisome when saying hello to people. It's like no matter what time of the day it is or no matter where I am, if I say hello some one will pull a bottle of rice wine or beer out and there I find myself sitting and sharing it over smiles and phrase book conversation. Unbelievable! I decided it was best not to get myself lost and headed back towards the little town by way of different little roads. Soon I was slowly winding my way down the hills behind the town and making my way back along the foreshore. What an amazing afternoon it was. Soon I was sitting on a little grassy hill reading 'Vanity Fair' which really isn't grabbing me at all. Sadly as I don't have much in the way of reading material I shall continue to make my way through it. I soon found myself making my way back into the market place for dinner. Here I met a guy who could speak a little English and I finally got to ask him a few questions that I had wanted to ask. Mainly that of all the fish farming I could see going on around me. If Wando Island was a part of a National Park then why is there so much fish farming happening. His vocabulary seemed to decrease at that time and he decided that simple questions about me and where I had been and where I was going were better questions to ask and answer. Cool by me as he was buying the drinks! I decided to call it another early night and after a few more drinks we said our good byes and I headed on home to my little Yoinsuk behind the Post Office. When I arrived home the sweet little old lady who runs the hostel was soon knocking on my door with a tray full of food and tea for me. I tried to explain that I had already eaten but she wouldn't hear of it. She showed me my room receipt and it seemed that it included my dinner too. The meal was awesome but as I lay awake much later in the evening/early morning I wished that it had of included much more alcohol. Out side my window was a Grandfather Clock and this Grandfather Clock really hated me. Each hour upon the hour it stuck that hour and it let you know in a big way what each hour was. I went from counting ten, eleven and twelve dongs to one, two, three etc. Not only was it extremely happy to tell you the hour but it was over the top happy to tell you each and every single second between each hour. How the fark do people have these things in their homes? Who the fark created such a stupid disrespectful time piece? I finally must have slept and awoke to count eight dongs and decided if I had to count nine of them I would go insane. After a shower I found the sweet old lady and told her not to bother with dinner for me as I would have it at the market place. She seemed a bit sad until, I think I told her (through my phrase book) that I could drink beer with the locals at the market place and not eat on my own in my room here at the hostel. She then smiled and patted me on the back. I guess she understood! After that I headed back to the market place to fill myself on little snacks and a bowl of noodles before repeating my actions from the day before. This time I headed in the opposite direction and spent many hours sitting on top of a grassy hill watching the waves and catching up on a few hours sleep and doing my best to get through Vanity Fair. This really is a Penguin Classic? HHHHMMMMMMmmmmmmm! Around dinner time I repeated yesterday's actions and sat with several guys for many beers. This time though it was phrase book conversation which really seems to get them going. Everyone fights over the book and wants to ask the next crazy question like 'what time is the bus?' or 'I want some anti-diarrhea tablets' or 'do you have tampons?' Soon most of the market place is listening and yelling at the person with the book to obviously ask for a 'box of condoms' etc. It really is a great time when the phrase book is being passed around. I guess it give locals the chance to see English and actually ask questions that a foreigner can understand. It doesn't matter if it is a crazy question as that makes it more special as that means WE BOTH understand that it is a crazy question and that it is kind of like, 'a taboo question' ie: tampons. My answer was yes, with three bottles of rice wine. That threw them in to hysterics! Beers N Cheers toya....shane <u>Accommodation:</u></b> Kwangju Yoinsuk Found in a little alleyway at rear of Post Office ______________________________________ The soundtrack to this entry was Aussie 'The Cruel Sea' The album was one of the best Australian albums ever released! 'The Honeymoon Is Over' Baby!

Posted by eddakath 17:00 Archived in South Korea Comments (0)

Internal N External Storms!

Hey Hey and a Big G'Day toya, I awoke to horrid grey skies both internally and externally! Though it was yet to storm externally it had started internally about an hour before I seated myself next to Sea Captain and Disco Rager Mr IIho whom had organised to meet me at the ferry terminal that morning...and who had informed my hotel staff of this most probably as I was driving the porcelain bus. They had continually knocked on my door until I finally rose to let them know I was up and getting ready.

Not only was it storming in my brain but my stomach had become an inferno of both kimchee and rice wine. I wasn't in a good way! When Mr IIho told me that the ferries had been cancelled I tried to let out a happy Hip Hip Hooray but only managed a small whimper. He also looked a little green around the gills but compared to me he was an extra strength vitamin tablet! As he had to head out to sea later that afternoon I thought it best to nestle on a nice quiet bus for a few hours and feel completely sorry for myself whilst I watched beautiful scenery pass me by. Mr IIho and I then headed to the bus station where somehow he got me onto a bus for fee and I was soon making my way towards the next ferry port, a little island and fishing village called Wando. When I was in Seoul I had found packets vitamin C sticks. I munched on these and drank several cans of coke as I watched what really was beautiful scenery pass my window. After some fruit and bread that I had purchased at the bus station I began to transform myself back into some sort of passable human. Soon I was arriving at the bus station and eager to do something with my day. After trying for a map of the town I soon gave in and allowed life to simply guide me to where I was to stay and do what I was to do. I stopped for yet another can of coke and just as I was putting my change in my pocket I felt the need to turn around. As I did I found a lady standing behind me with a big smile on her face and she put her hands together and then to one side of her face in a sleeping motion. I simply nodded and she led me to her hostel that was quietly hidden down a little alley way behind the post office. Unbelievable! I then spent a few hours walking around the town under very grey skies. I visited the little market place where I ate Pibimbap for dinner and then made my way home and had the earliest evening I had had since leaving Australia. Beers N Cheers toya...shane <u>Accommodation:</u></b> Kwangju Yoinsuk Found in a little alleyway at rear of Post Office ______________________________________ The soundtrack to this entry was Blink 182 The album was 'Take Your Pants Off'

Posted by eddakath 17:00 Archived in South Korea Comments (0)