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Romantic Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Hey Hey and a Big G'Day toya,

Here I sit beneath red glows from the lanterns that surround me on my small balcony. I have just finished a huge plate of bamboo shoots mixed with vegetables and pork.

I can be found almost teary this evening but not due to sadness, more so from the happiness I found four and a half years ago when I left the 'real world’ behind and chose to live my dreams. Not only is my job the most exciting and fun job in the world but for over four months a year each day is a new adventure where there are no business hours nor a boss to answer to. There is just me, my pack, my sandals, barely a plan in mind and the only hard decision to be made is which beautiful place to visit next.

If only you could see where I am now (in person!) Sometimes when I sit back and look at where I am it can be a little too much.

It feels like my life has become a picturesque calendar where instead of each month having a breathtaking picture attached to it mine has one for each day and usually of something that simply cant be my reality. As I look around I find myself saying that this surely has to be out of a movie or from a postcard that a friend sent to a friend whilst they were on a short holiday in a far away country.

Several days ago I finally gathered the strength to leave Tunxi town and all that it has to offer and for the next week or so I will be found tramping around an area known as Wuyuan and the following is what the LP has to say about this amazingly scenic area.

The countryside around Wuyuan found in the splendid northeast of Jiangxi Province is home to some of China’s most immaculate views. Parceled away in this fertile and hilly pocket on the fringes of stunning southern Anhui Province and western Xhejiang Province is scattered a cluster of picturesque Huizhou villages where old China remains preserved in enticing panoramas of ancient bridges, glittering rivers, stone-flagged alleyways and the slow, meandering pace of traditional rural life.

For the last several days and nights I’ve been in a tiny ancient village named ‘Small Likeng’ (say Leekeng) and after here I will head to Big Likeng both of which are located a bus ride from each other. Both are real villages where people slowly go about their day doing what it is that rural Chinese village people do all of which seems to be completely opposite to me. They rise early and sleep early and I rise latish in comparison and never sleep before two in the morning.

Here the lights go out at the ungodly hour of somewhere between nine and ten. I am then left wondering what to do as I am trapped in my room and on top of that I have to do my best to be even quieter than any of the village mice.

So for anyone who wishing to visit and stay in any of the villages in the Wuyuan area you will be sleeping in someone’s home. Admittedly the government has splashed about the tourism money to some of the villages and their homes new more resemble small elegant bed and breakfast places but still, they are homes. This is a village and you do have to play by village hours where there are no bars nor televisions to be heard after lights out. In fact I had mine turned up the slightest last night but it seemed that even though I could barely hear it over the air conditioner it was too loud and the owner knocked on my door and asked me to turn it down. Of course when I did press the button a single time it went from one to zero so there ended my English version of The General Daughter.

The following is what the LP has to say about the village where my pack lays open with its contents scattered all about my homely little room.

A delightfully picturesque village, Likeng also known locally as Xiao Likeng (or small) enjoys a stupendous riverside setting, hung with lanterns, threaded by tight alleys and tightly bound together by quaint bridges. Come night time, Likeng is ever more serene, its riverside lanes glowing softly under red lanterns and old fashioned style street lamps while locals navigate darker quarters by torchlight.

Likens highly photogenic focal point hinges on the confluence of its two streams traversed by the bump of the three hundred year old Tongi Bridge and sign posted by the Shenming Pavilion (one of the villages signature sights) and its wooden benches polished smooth with age. Among the baicai (Chinese cabbage) draped from bamboo poles, chunks of cured meat hangs out to dry from crumbling, mildewed buildings.

Cross one of the ancient stone bridges and take the stone-flagged path up the hill, past an old camphor tree, past terraced fields, through bamboo and firs and then back to the clear cool river again. Walk in any direction and you will soon be walking in country side.

Washer women can be found scrubbing wads of wet clothing along the village streams banks, plump chickens are seen scampering about, all of the interiors of each ancient hall and traditional home lay open inviting inquisitive glances whilst peasant families can be found offering cheap beds to wayfarers.

The photos for this entry were taken both today the 12th and yesterday the 11th August.

Both days I spent slowly and sleepily wondering around the village and finding small alleyways that I hoped I hadn’t already ventured down. This afternoon I spent on a wonderful adventure out in the tiered rice fields that were watered via bamboo poles. It was so quiet out there and so green. I haven’t seen such green for over a year now after leaving Fujian Province, yet this green was more like those found in Guangxi.

Such clarity and such calmness to ones soul fed though the bodies window, the eye.

I ended my night back at the same eatery as last night and as I was sorting through the last few days photos another foreigner haphazardly found the same eatery. Only two of us here and how nice that we found the same place out of all the little eateries in town. A primary school teacher back in Europe who has just arrived in China after travelling around South Korea. We shared a wonderful hour or so talking about the current China we both find ourselves in compared to the China we both travelled nearing ten years ago. I can’t say how good it was to meet someone who was here back when Yangshuo was but a sleepy retreat for smelly travelers after which we both then followed the same banana pancake eating backpackers trail across to Yunnan Province.

What a wonderful way to end my very relaxing time here in Xiao Likeng Village.

I did have a heap of information to sort through but somehow last night I lost it all as I had two families around me wanting photos taken together and somehow I forgot to save this page after I had been cutting and pasting information so now all I have left is the information on the Wuyuan area which I will use in my next blog from Da Likeng (Big Likeng). I thought the LP write up on Small Likeng (above) was so beautiful and too the point with its description on this tiny and sleepy yet very real rural Chinese village.

So once again I’ve had to borrow from the LP. Where would I be with out my bible! Beers N Noodles toya…..shane ___________________________________________________________

The soundtrack to this entry was by John Mayer The album was ‘Continuum’ ____________________________________________________________

Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village


Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Serenity in Small Likeng Village

Posted by eddakath 17:00 Archived in China

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